Article

By Majken Talbot

Editor's Note: The King Tides are coming! The tides will be in effect this December 13-15, 2024, and again January 11-13, 2025. The low tide during these weeks will be the lowest all year and offer prime tidepool viewing.

San Mateo County has Tidepools
Tidepools—in San Mateo County? Yes. Midway between the coastal towns of Pacifica and Half Moon Bay lies the small but bountiful 180-acre Fitzgerald Marine Reserve. One of California’s 124 Marine Protected Areas, the reserve boasts a tiny public beach with gorgeous tidepools and bluff-view trails. From Sea Stars to Harbor Seals, this San Mateo County Park is well worth a visit. Be prepared to follow a few common sense rules to protect this fragile ecosystem.

Geologic Forces Shape The Tidepools
Just steps from a small parking lot, a short, paved walk leads visitors past San Vicente Creek to the beach. At low tide, ridges of dark rock emerge from the ocean, cutting through the waves like the armored back plates of a dinosaur. Formed three to seven million years ago, this tan and gray Siltstone was folded and upturned by geologic forces, shaping it into a perfect rocky intertidal habitat. Since the early 1900s, naturalists and biologists have discovered 25 new plant and invertebrate species here.

The Siltstone, part of the Purissima Foundation, contains fossils of mollusks and other ancient marine organisms. 1996 California Geologists excavated a two-to-five-million-year-old Baleen whale fossil from a nearby sandstone cliff.

Nye’s Rocks
Nye’s Rocks is a geologic quirk with mystical appeal. From the tidepools, look north toward Kelp Cove. Here the ridges of black rocks curve in a perfect arc, like a half-completed megalithic circle. Blame the Seal Cove Fault line. A part of the larger San Gregorio fault system, this minor fault line runs along the rocky reef towards Point Reyes. The movement of this strike-slip fault can cause sedimentary rocks to fold back on themselves in what is known as a syncline. Over time, the water erosion exposes the layers in the fold, adding to the look.

(The rocks are named after Charley Nye, who owned and operated a cafe at the foot of the cliffs from the early 1900s to 1931. The popular abalone hunting and beach fishing spot drew many celebrities, including writer Jack London.)

Not One, but Two Tidepools
Be sure to plan your visit to coincide with a low tide—ideally one foot or lower. At this time, the waves recede, revealing a world of living sea treasures. At low tide, the tidepools can extend up to 1,000 feet into the Pacific Ocean.

There are two tidepool areas to enjoy. The most popular tide-pool area is located right off the park’s main entrance on Nevada Avenue. The second set of tidepools are located about half a mile south at Seal Cove. The Bluff trail will lead you there.

Play the Pinniped Trivia Game: List 4 or more differences between California Sea Lions and Harbor Seals. Check your answers here.

Play I Spy: Hike Strawberry Hill. Three date palm trees mark the site of the former Smith-Dolger Estate built in 1887. Can you find them?

Tidepool Treasure Hunt: Keep a list. Snap a photo. After 45 minutes of diligent searching, compare photos. See who can find the greatest variety of tidepool organisms.

You will kick yourself for not planning: Check the Tides, then check Park hours. Don’t get caught by tidepooling after the park closes. The park rangers will NOT be amused.
Unsolicited Trip Tip: Have a Haunted Lunch at the Moss Beach Distillery: Once a prohibition speakeasy with a haunted past—a fun place to grab a seafood lunch and Seal Cove Caipirinha Martini.

Tidepooling 101
Intertidal ecology is subdivided into different zones. Each zone provides unique habitat for various organisms to thrive. The Splash Zone and High Tide Zone are extreme environments. Limpets, Barnacles, Periwinkle, and Black Turban snails cling to rocks and snuggle within their shells to keep from drying out in the heat of the sun. Here, too, resides the effortlessly charming Hermit Crab.
However, the widest variety of organisms find their Zipcode in the Mid Tide and Low Tide Zones. The Mid Tide zone is submerged by all high tides, providing ample moisture for algae. Look for Green Sea Anemones and bright orange Ochre Stars. A small tidepool fish, the Sculpin, also calls this tidal zone home. This prehistoric-looking fish uses camouflage to stay hidden. If you observe a sudden movement in the water—that’s likely a Sculpin darting for cover.

When the tide is below zero feet, the Giant Green Anemone rules. The splendid neon green color results from a symbiosis with a single-celled algae. Marine Scientists believe these delicate-looking jelly-like creatures can live for a staggering 80 to 100 years! Other living marvels include the spiky purple sea urchin and the Kelp Crab.

But those are just some of the usual suspects. A recent count of intertidal organisms revealed that a population of discriminating salt and pepper nudibranchs has opted for real estate at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve over that of Pillar Point. One theory is that the nooks and crannies of the tidepool rocks provide an ideal habitat for the Nudibranchs’ prey.

A visit to this magical place never fails to amaze and delight. Last year, a comical video of a red octopus tidepool hopping went viral.

Be prepared for the unexpected. Bring shoes with good traction to grip the slippery rocks. A windbreaker and water are always recommended. A magnifying glass will enhance the experience. Of course, plan your visit for the lowest possible tide that occurs within park hours.

Tidepool Etiquette
It might be sorely tempting to poke a sea anemone to watch it squirt water and shrivel up. But sea anemones need to retain water to survive at low tide. Removing a single hermit crab seems harmless, but with tens of thousands of visitors arriving each year, the loss or harm to this fragile ecosystem quickly escalates. Please enjoy these magical places responsibly by following good tidepool etiquette.

A Harbor Seal’s Paradise
Kelp forests are making a comeback, so cod is plentiful, and the harbor seals are fat and sassy. A large pod of up to 350 harbor seals resides here! They can be found lazing on the beach in clusters. Unlike the California Sea Lion, harbor seals’ hip bones are fused, so they cannot maneuver their hind flippers to support their body weight on land. This means they must resort to belly-flopping to propel themselves. This idiosyncratic caterpillar-like wiggle has been quaintly dubbed “Gallumphing”— a sly homage to Lewis Carrol’s poem “The Jabberwocky.”

This protected beach is a rookery, aka harbor seal nursery. From March to June each year, the seals birth and raise their pups on a stretch of sand from Nye’s Rocks to Seal Cove. The park goes to great lengths to protect these adorable pinnipeds. Orange traffic cones placed along the beach keep visitors a respectful 300-foot distance from the seals. Dogs are not permitted.

The best place to view the harbor seals is from above. Take the Bluff Trail to the vista point. Bring a good pair of binoculars to get up close and personal with seal antics. It’s also the perfect spot to spy on migrating whales.

Park Rules
No dogs on the beach. No dogs on or off leash.

The Fitzgerald Marine Reserve is part of a larger Marine Protected Area, designated No Take Zone! No fishing or hunting is allowed within the Marine Reserve. Removing any items from the reserve, including shells, marine life, and even rocks, is prohibited. It’s highly recommended that you review the tidepool etiquette before visiting.

Park hours vary. In the Winter, be advised the park closes at 5pm. Groups of 10 or more require a docent-led tour and must make reservations in advance. Call (650) 363–4021 for reservations or (650) 363–4020 for more information.

Trail and Parking Info
There are approximately 35 parking spaces with room for 10 more in an overflow parking area. Be prepared to compete for parking on a weekend at low tide. If possible, shift your plans to a weekday. The Fitzgerald Marine Reserve provides a few short, picturesque trails with views.

The two-mile-long Bluff Trail ascends gently 100 feet to the top of Strawberry Hill, which overlooks the beach. The stunning vista provides ideal Harbor Seal, Bird, and Whale Watching opportunities. Although tempting, please refrain from picking the wild beach strawberries. They are a protected plant.

The Bluff Trail intersects the short Seal Cove Trail. The Seal Cove Trail leads from Cypress Avenue down a set of stairs to the beach. This spot marks the location of an ancient Ohlone hearth and shell midden. A second set of tidepools is located at Seal Cove Beach.

Along the way, the trail traverses through two recent archaeological sites. One of the oldest artifacts ever discovered in San Mateo was found here: An ancient Ohlone crescent-shaped stone tool.

The ADA-accessible Dardanelle Trail is similar in length and leads through a charming Cypress grove planted by the Irish immigrant Smith family in the late 1800s. Bicyclists and Equestrians are welcome on this trail. Dogs on leash are welcome! The Bluff Trail and Dardanelle Trail form a charming, easy loop through the reserve.